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Day 1
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P A R I S to M O N T B A Z O N
After TGV from Montparnasse station in Paris to Tours (35 minutes), meet escort at train station and transfer to lunch nearby for orientation. In the afternoon, exploring the highlights of Tours. Located near the junction of the Loire and Cher Rivers, Tours is a university town and the typical point of departure for exploring the Loire Valley and castles in the region, but we'll pause for a glipse of a few unique attractions, including the city's wonderful Renaissance and neo-classical mansions (right), which are clustered around the famous Plumereau square, and the Cathedral of St-Gatien.
In the afternoon, transferring to nearby Montbazon (about ten miles) and splendid accomodation at the castle Domaine de La Tortinière. Dinner will be on the premises tonight in the formal dining room of l’Orangery by chef David Chartier. |
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Château La Tortinière Domaine de la Tortinière, built in 1861, has a most impressive exterior, an inviting interior, and charming hosts Xavier and his wife Anne. Although, a first class hotel, they set a relaxed and welcoming ambiance as opposed to stiff or formal. Domaine de la Tortinière exudes the feeling of a home with a blend of contemporary and traditional decor with modern and antique furniture. In the drawing room old paneling painted in soft yellows combines with modern sofas and tables and traditional chairs to create a very comfortable room. Bedrooms continue in the same vein with a pleasing blend of traditional and contemporary, and are found in the main château, the adjacent pavilion, a little cottage by the entrance to the property and the recently converted manor where Xavier’s grandparents used to live-the accommodation is spectacular and absolutely gorgeous in the decor as selected by Anne.
In autumn the surrounding woodlands are a carpet of cyclamens, while in summer the heated swimming pool and tennis courts are great attractions for guests. The Domaine de la Tortinière remains a favorite in terms of accommodation, welcome, and charm and its dining room is exceptional. Seasonally, cooking courses are offered that serve as an introduction to regional cuisine and provide the opportunity to dine with the owners. |
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Day 2
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M O N T B A Z O N
Get your first glimpse of the Château de Villandry and its amazing gardens on a warm-up ride along the gorgeous Loire River. In the evening, listen to a French history expert and learn more about the Medieval Characters.
Following a leisurely breakfast, rolling out from the castle along the majestic Loire River, and pass through charming little villages on quiet, peaceful roads. We continue riding to the Castle of Villandry to enjoy the visit of the château and its famous gardens. Lunch will be in a small restaurant directly across from the château.
A 45 km (27 mi.) ride along the Loire River to Château de Villandry for lunch, then passing through small villages on mostly fl at terrain. A long option towards the Château de Langeais is available. (20 km – 12 mi.) |
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Day 2
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M O N T B A Z O N to C H I N O N
Before breakfast, enjoying breathtaking views of the Loire at sunrise, floating over the countryside in a hot air balloon. After the ride (about one hour), return to the Château for breakfast.
A 45 km (27 mi.) ride along the Loire River to Château de Villandry for lunch, then passing through small villages on mostly flat terrain. A long option towards the Château de Langeais is available. (20 km – 12 mi.)
Restaurant Le Chai at Manoir de Restigne featuring Michelin Star Chef Damien Cousseau. [website] |
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Château de Marcay
Picturesque 15th-century castle-hotel, comprising 33 lodgings (no A/C) with well-equipped modern baths, plus seven accommodations in a 17th-Century outbuilding. Restaurant serves fine regional cuisine. Impressive wine list with more than 700 selections. Cooking classes, outdoor heated pool and tennis. [Website] |
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Day 3
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C H I N O N (Saumner)
Following a leisurely breakfast, rolling out from the castle along the majestic Loire River, and pass through charming little villages on quiet, peaceful roads. We continue riding to the Castle of Villandry to enjoy the visit of the château and its famous gardens. Lunch will be in a small restaurant directly across from the château.
A 45 km (27 mi.) ride along the Loire River to Château de Villandry for lunch, then passing through small villages on mostly flat terrain. A long option towards the Château de Langeais is available. (20 km – 12 mi.)
Le Gambetta is the place to go for an elegant and special meal in Saumur. The locals will tell you it's the best restaurant in town, and once you taste the food you'll agree. Excellent [website] |
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Day 4
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C H I N O N to L E M E R E
Ride past troglodyte villages and the extraordinary Castle of Azay-le-Rideau, the famous Renaissance masterpiece also known as the "playground of the kings." Be certified as a member of the “Chinon Secret Wine Community” before dinner in the home of Michelin star Chef, M. Rigollet.
After arrival at the Château du Rivau, we'll enjoy an introduction and tasting of Loire Valley wines, from Muscadet to Sancerre, Anjou, Chinon and Vouvray, to mention just a few of the best-known names. |
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Château du Rivau
With its majestic keep and its protective drawbridge, the Château du Rivau seems to come straight out of a fairy tale. Its shape is reminiscent of 13th century fortified castles as suggest the square layout one can still discern. The square shaped keep was the heart of the castle’s fortification. Yet the Rivau was one of the first ornamental castles to be built: its cheminees, wide windows and frescos endow it with a harmonious style. In the dining hall of the Feast of Belshazzar, a biblical episode of the Feast of Belshazzar was depicted over the fire mantelpiece by a Flemish master of the 16th century. According to the Bible, the son of King Nebuchadnezzar had violated the sacred vases of the temple of Jerusalem. [website] |
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Day 5
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L E M E R E to N O I Z A Y
Early today we pass by the birthplace of Rabelais, to whom we raised our glasses during initiation into the Wine Brotherhood. We continue our ride out into the nearby Chinon Forest and en route, we’ll catch a glimpse of the splendid Châteaux d’Ussé, near the confluence of the Indre and Loire rivers. Then we cross the Loire at its confluence with the River Vienne, to ride through the lush countryside on the north bank. For lunch, we’ll enjoy a degustation of some of the best wines in the Bourgueil appellation—at the famous Domaine de La Chevallerie with the winemaker from the domain, Stéphanie Caslot. All together we get to play sommelier and select the bottles we would like to drink with our picnic lunch, which will be served directly in the wine cave or in the vineyards if the sun is with us!
After this memorable experience, we’ll drive one hour east from western Tours in a private coach in time for tonight’s dinner, which will be in the spectacular Château de Noizay’s formal dining room— recently honoured by the famous French Gastronomic guidebook: Gault & Millau. |
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Château de Noizay
This remarkable castle, located in the Vouvray wine appellation and overlooking the village of Noizay and the Loire Valley, began its construction in the 26thC and was finally finished a full century later. Owner Mme. William recently transformed the castle into a Relais & Châteaux property, maintaining the French idea of luxury and “rafinement.” [website] |
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Day 6
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N O I Z A Y
We’ll begin our last day with a lovely ride through forests, alongside rivers and by charming villages typical of the region. En route, we’ll catch a glimpse of both splendid Châteaux d’Amboise, including the Château du Clos Lucé in which Leonardo Da Vinci worked for the King François 1er. Then, we head off south towards the famous Château de Chenonceaux and the Cher River. Lunch is en route in one of the Renaissance villages you choose along the way. Tonight Mme. William, the owner of the Château de Noizay, will host a private dinner for us in the 18thC library to celebrate our last dinner in the Loire. |
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Besides great mustard, the local dishes of Burgundy include coq a vin and boeuf bourguignon; both of which are made with local red wine. The beef is provided by Charolais cattle (see picture) which are the local breed. Another resident is the humble vineyard snail, which is used to make their famous escargot.
And what about the wine? Well, in Burgundy it is easy to know what varietals you are enjoying, as almost all reds are made from Pinot Noir, with the whites being Chardonnay. But just because the vines are all the same doesn’t mean that the end products will be. With some of the best wine-growing terroir in all of France, Burgundy can produce some truly amazing wines. I cannot wait to try as many of them as I can find/afford.
The Côte d’Or is part of the Burgundy region and starts just below Dijon. Apart from the type of grapes grown, Burgundy differs from Bordeaux in another way. In Bordeaux, it’s all about the name on the label. Lynch-Bages, Petrus, Mouton-Rothchild etc. So, where Bordeaux is all about the Château, Burgundy is all about the where. The Côte d’Or has two main regions, the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. In terms of hierarchy, Burgundy wine is classified according to region i.e. Burgundy (Bourgogne), then by district, Côte d’Or then onto village, e.g Gevry-Chambertin and further up to a particular vineyard.
Grand Cru is often thought of as a sign of quality, but it’s really a measure of the potential of the land the grapes are grown on. Many vineyards in Burgundy are split into subplots or allotments and have multiple owners, some only owning a small row so it’s very hard to pick a wine based purely on village or even vineyard, you sometimes need to know the exact producer. By reputation the top three villages in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or are: •Gevrey-Chambertin •Chambolle-Musigny •Vosne-Romanee |
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Day 7
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T O U R S to D I J O N (via Paris)
After a scenic breakfast on the terrace, enjoying our last moments at the Château before preperation for departure. Mid-morning, return to Tours train station to board the TGV returning to Paris (about 35 minutes). After arrival at the Montparnasse station, transfer by taxi to Gare de Lyon to board ongoing TGV.
After a picturesque journey on the TGV fast train from Paris Gare de Lyon (1hr 20 mins), you will be met in the afternoon at the Dijon TGV platform and transit by private car to the Château to settle in to your room and enjoy the tranquil surrounding of the property. Aperitif will be served in the lounge or terrace to discuss the coming week; we will then enjoy a wonderful dinner in the Château dining room overlooking the park. (D) |
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Day 8
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D I J O N to C H A M B O L L E M U S I N G Y
It is market day in Dijon's Les Halles — Burgundy's largest marketplace, designed by Alexandre Eiffel, and we'll briefly explore it prior to our first bike ride in Burgundy. Our riding begins along the canal de Bourgognetakes and meanders along the Saône River, past wheat fields and rustic farms to the famous village of Morey-saint-Denis.
Before we know it, we’re at the Castel de Très Girard, where we stop in for a light gourmet lunch prepared by the young Chef, Eric Shmitt. Duly fuelled, our route leads us into the equally-famous village of Gevrey-Chambertin, home to more Grand Crus. From there, we continue on up to the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.
Then, we follow a rolling route with amazing views before we start a fun and long downhill, all the way to the village of Chambolle Musigny and the hotel Château André Ziltener, where director Madame Schwartz welcomes us at her door. After settling in, we’ll walk to the charming Caveau des Musignys, where we’ll listen to an informal introduction to Burgundian wines with a local tasting professional and winemaker, Jane Eyre-Renard. Suitably educated, we’ll take a quick drive to Chez Guy, tonight’s restaurant back in Gevrey- Chambertin. This restaurant is a local favourite, and many of the area’s famous winemakers consider it to be the best in the region.
A 40 km (25 mi.) ride following small roads through quiet farmland and vineyards. Most of the ride is quite flat, then becomes slightly uphill and rolling after lunch as we approach the Côte d’Or. |
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Château Hotel André Ziltener, rue de la Fontaine, Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy
Stylishly appointed 18th-century mansion- hotel tucked behind lofty walls in a vineyard-surrounded wine hamlet on the fabled “Route des Grands Crus,” twenty minutes north of Beaune. Set amid the vines in tiny Chambolle-Musigny, the intimate yet luxurious 18thC Château André Ziltener opened as a hotel in 1993. Tastefully decorated and surrounded by a peaceful garden there are only ten guest quarters (no A/C) that feature antique furniture and lavish marble baths. Wine bar serves simple meals; numerous nearby restaurants. [website] |
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Day 9
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C H A M B O L L E M U S I N G Y to B E A U N E
An easy start to the day with a short (17-mile) ride through the gently rolling vineyards following the Côte d’Or through some of the most famous vineyards in the world including Romanée Conti, La Tâche and Richebourg to the medieval city Beaune.
After freshining up at the hotel, lunching at local favorite, Ma Cuisine before heading out to explore highlights of Beaune, including the 14th century Hospice of Beaune (Hotel-Dieu) where we'll have time to wander through the Salle des Pauvres (the hall of the poor), the rooms of Sainte-Anne, Saint-Nicolas, Sainte-Hughes and Saint-Louis as well as the fully restored kitchen.
With time to refresh back at the hotel we will dine out this evening enjoying another dinner accompanied by wonderful wines from the Cote d'Or. Our special dinner is a candlelit feast hosted in the oldest wine house of Burgundy—Maison Champy. Emilie Forterre, a young local sommelier, will tour us through some of the famous 15thC wine cellars of Beaune. Of course, our dinner will be accompanied by Grand Crus directly from the cellar below! Do you need another highlight for this special evening? The French Chef Thomas Lecourbe, twice a chef ’s assistant in the three-starred Michelin restaurants belonging to Pierre Gagnaire and Jacques Lameloise, will cook just for us. The menu perfectly matches the different “Crus” we’ll taste through the night. |
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Hostellerie De Levernois, Route De Combertault, Levernois, Beaune
Gourmet sanctuary in a pretty parkland setting with huge cedar trees, formal French gardens and a rushing creek, 10 minutes outside Beaune. Twelve bright and spacious rooms with parquet flooring, warm paneling and rich fabrics are situated in a garden pavilion; six are in the main building; and eight other chic lodgings combining tradition and modernity are in the “Meix des Glycines,” a recently acquired 18th-century structure. The stately white villa houses a luncheon bistro with a riverside terrace, and a gourmet dinner restaurant that opens onto the park and serves seasonal regional cuisine backed by an extensive wine list. [website] |
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Day 10
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B E A U N E
Today we'll enjoy a cooking class, beginning this morning with a visit to the market day in Beaune; where we will design tonight's menu and purchase the wonderful produce that is so famous here at this colourful and vibrant market. The afternoon is spent in the Château kitchen working with your chosen chef, culminating in a fabulous dinner at the Château accompanied by wonderful Burgundy wines from the Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune, selected by our resident sommelier, Alexandre Philippe.before heading into the kitchen to commence the mis en place for this evenings dinner. After lunch Alexandre will present a wine masterclass in the Château cellar to explain the complexities and appellations of the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune along with several tastings. |
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Day 11
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V A L L É E de L' O U C H
Today we head northwest into the Ouche Valley. The landscape (and the riding) is spectacularly beautiful as we make our way along quiet country roads passing through the villages of Nantoux and Bessey-en-Chaume. The terrain is hilly in parts and quite flat in others, providing a perfect blend. For lunch today, we’ll enjoy a picnic in the stunning garden and terraces of the Abbey de La Bussière, our accommodation this evening.
Late afternoon we will visit Le Ferme de Poiset, (a goat dairy) who make and supply chevre to many restaurants all over France. After seeing how the chevre is made we will enjoy some of their produce in the 300 year old farmhouse dining room. Departing Le Ferme de Poiset we'll enjoy a picturesque drive back to the Château for apertif and dinner in the hotel that is the creation of Emmanuel Hébrard, an exciting young chef who earned his first Michelin star in 2009.
A 37 km (23 mi.) ride from the Côte de Beaune through “Les Hautes-Côtes” on long—but not so steep— hills to the calm and flat Vallée de l’Ouche.
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Abbaye de la Bussiere, La Bussiere sur Ouche, Dijon Manor house-hotel, once the country residence of the bishops of Dijon, providing a convenient base from which to tour Burgundy’s great wine towns, including Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle- Musigny, Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton, Meursault and Beaune. Set amid a walled 15-acre park, the magical three-story 14th-century mansion is constructed of mellow golden limestone and topped by a steep slate roof. The hotel’s 17 rooms have been individually decorated and furnished with fine antiques, while atmospheric public areas include a galleried Great Hall.
The menu at the property’s main restaurant displays a shrewd synthesis of French tradition and the modern demand for lighter and healthier eating. As elsewhere in the hotel, service in the restaurant is exceptional. The hotel’s Michelin-starred chef, Emmanuel Hebrard, produces some truly spectacular Burgundian cuisine, using locally sourced ingredients. There are two restaurants – the lunchtime Bistro des Moines is relatively informal, while the Gastronomic is less a restaurant than an experience. At £72 (€89), the “menu de l’abbaye” is not cheap, but you’ll experience top-notch gastronomy. [website] |
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Day 12
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Depart
This morning, enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the Abbaye before heading off to enjoy a private wine tasting in the Cote de Nuits, followed by a wander through the vins and lunching in Gevrey Charmbertin – home of the many wonderful Grand Crus of the Cote d’Or.
In the afternoon, transfer to Gare de Dijon-Ville train station, where we can catch a train to Paris or beyond.
Bon voyage!
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* B=Breakfast L=Lunch D=Dinner |
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